Last Thursday I made my way to a small Brooklyn restaurant called Palo Santo. Beer lovers would recognize this as the aromatic, South American hardwood used by Sam Calagione for Dogfish Head’s Palo Santo Marron. In Brooklyn, New York, however, Palo Santo is a hidden culinary gem whose compact menu is dependent on what’s available at the market and is fittingly described as “eclectic-Latino”. Jacques Gautier, the Haitian chef, was celebrating his 30th birthday that night while located in the back room a puffy shirted Argentinean guitarist gave classic Beatles tunes a flamenco treatment. Despite all of this, the reason I ventured to Park Slope was for a beer dinner held by Brooklyn Brewery’s Garret Oliver.
Over the past fifteen years Mister Oliver has become a world-class authority on food and beer pairing while attempting to bring beer the same culinary respect as wine. As I arrived at seven o’clock, the brewer was hunched over the main bar, scribbling some notes and chatting with the chef about a few of the dishes. I gawked as I was escorted to my seat and poured a pale, frothy glass of Brooklyn Weisse. After catching up and clinking glasses with my friends, my eyes fell upon the small menu positioned in front of me.
My mother’s family is Puerto Rican, so I grew up with Caribbean and Latin tinged food. None of my grandmother’s simple dishes prepared for the onslaught of flavors I was about to sample: Braised Rabbit with Lemon and purple potatoes to compliment the Weisse; an IPA to ease the spice of a curried duck with coconut milk and mustard greens; vanilla ice cream in a pork reduction with lard cookies and Black Chocolate Stout.
The fine folks at Brooklyn Brewery have always been very helpful about pairing their beers with food. Their website is full of tips and recipes and Mr. Oliver wrote a book dedicated to the art of creating the perfect meal with a harmonious marriage of drink and food. Despite all of this, I was not prepared for the avalanche of flavors that were about to engulf me.
Conejo en Escabeche was the first course. Literally translated as Rabbit in Brine, the gamey taste of the meat was offset by the tart lemons. I’ve eaten rabbit many times and the classic Spanish dish of mejilones en escabeche was as familiar to me as the banana-tinged taste of Brooklyner Weisse. When combined, however, the brisk, bouncy tang of the beer played with the acidic lemon in the dish and really highlighted the dark, earthy flavors of the rabbit and potatoes. These taste bud enlightening moments only intensified as the evening went on and I learned about the beauty of a finely matched meal and beverage.
My favorite plate was Duck Buss-Up-Shut paired with East Indian Pale Ale. Although IPA’s are not my first pick for a drink, their compatibility with spicy food is undeniable and the Duck buss-up-Shut was the perfect foil for this beer. Crispy skin acted as the first layer of a symphonic display of flavors. The crunchy exterior led to a thin layer of gooey, savory fat before leading to the dark and juicy meat. A small mound of mustard greens contrasted the textures while a pool of spicy curry sauce enveloped the entire package in heat. The spice was intense, but not enough to detract from the flavors. Also, the East Indian Pale Ale—a beer more in tune with its English ancestors than its modern, American counterparts—was able to match each step, extinguishing the fire and fat while letting the flavors shine through. I could have eaten this meal forever, and you couldn’t imagine how both the beer and the food merged to create an entirely new flavor profile when experienced together.
Garret Oliver is an interesting and passionate individual. As he lamented on the fact that 10% of the beer produced in the early 1900’s came from Brooklyn and over 1400 independent breweries existed, he spoke optimistically about the emergence of fine foods and beers in this country.
The beers that Mr. Oliver brews are like the man himself, luxurious but down to earth, opulent but manageable. Brooklyn brewery aspires to pair its beers with lobster, quail, caviar and other big dollar meals but it never loses sight that nothing goes better with a smooth lager than a juicy hamburger. He, like his beers, marries old fashion dependability with flair. You can drink a Brooklyn in the finest restaurants in New York City just as easily as the cheapest dive bar. Fortunately for the beer enthusiast, both white cloth cuisine and deep fried tavern fare will benefit from a well-matched brew.
A bit of Dark Matter and some beer braised short ribs.Both photos courtesy of Graham Kates
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