The Search Begins...

Seville is known to most as a lovely, old town in the southern Spanish communidad of Andalusia. It is a city famous for it cathedral—which is the third largest in the world—as well as its flamenco, bull fighting and most importantly, its tapas.

Like most cities in Spain with strong ties to bull fighting, there are lots of bulls to be eaten. Since Spaniards don’t want these animals to go to waste after being killed during the fight, the most sensible thing to do is feed them to the people! I hear that back in the day, there were butchers at the back door of the Plaza de los Torros, waiting for the carcasses. I’m not sure how it works today, but I know Spaniards still eat bull.

About a month ago I discovered that certain people believe the tastiest part of the animal is los testiculos. I am still searching for a menu with Cojones on it, but I feel that I came one step closer in Seville. The restaurant I ate at was a classic Seville tapas joint: long bar adorned with various cheeses and meats, racks of wine behind it and a few employees furiously cooking away. After spoke to the bar man with the help of Miguel—the guide for my group—I learned the restaurant had no balls. However, the man could offer me colas del torro. Excitedly I ordered and fifteen minutes later was treated to a bully delight.

(I would love to post a picture of my colas, but stupidly I left my camera in the hostel before going out. I borrowed a camera from a friend of mine, so hopefully I’ll have some proof of my first bull experience. In the meantime, here is an artists rendition.)


All I can say is that colas are the bull version of oxtail; it is the tough cut of meat connected to the muscular tail. It’s braised or stewed until it reaches a delicious brisket like consistency, served with a side of potatoes and quickly inhaled by me. The bones look like chunky white stars and they force a hungry traveler to meticulously chomp the meat from between narrow crevices. I can assure you that it is worth the effort.

Although I have yet to sample bull pelotas yet, my first taste of bull was quite good. It gave me the strength I need to keep the search on, knowing that if the ass end of the animal is this delicious, I can only imagine what other wonders await me. Besides hope, the only other thing I can offer is a delicious look tapa I ate the following day—bread and some of the famous iberico jamon topped with a luscious looking quail egg.


Ole.